diff --git a/Easy-Methods-to-Replace-the-Fluorescent-Starter-in-A-Windhager-Bug-Zapper.md b/Easy-Methods-to-Replace-the-Fluorescent-Starter-in-A-Windhager-Bug-Zapper.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..545dcde --- /dev/null +++ b/Easy-Methods-to-Replace-the-Fluorescent-Starter-in-A-Windhager-Bug-Zapper.md @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +
Fourmilab is surrounded on three sides by farmland. Within the summer, bugs are all over the place. Faced with this example, defence in depth is the one option: window screens, bats, Odonata on the pond, [Zap Zone Defender](https://hwekimchi.gabia.io/bbs/board.php?bo_table=free&tbl=&wr_id=889353) fly strips on the home windows and swatters in every room, and because the last degree of terminal defence, high voltage bug zappers with ultraviolet fluorescent lures. These aren't elegant gadgets, but they get the job completed. The principle could not be simpler-flying insects, whose compound eyes see long-wave ultraviolet mild that mammalian eyes do not, are attracted by the lure tube, which seems to emit a dim blue gentle to people. To succeed in the light, they need to fly between wires electrified with between 4 and eight kilovolts which, when the insect completes the circuit, kill-a-bug. The one disadvantage (at the least if you are not a flying insect) is that they do not appear to last very lengthy. After just a little multiple summer time, the bulb either begins to flash on and off like a strobe mild or just refuses to gentle at all.
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Replacement bulbs are readily out there and easy to put in, [Zap Zone Defender](http://www.creatorengine.cn:8418/louiepatteson6/zap-zone-defender-setup2000/wiki/Do-Bug-Zappers-Kill-Mosquitoes%3F) however in my expertise, at least half the time changing the bulb does not fix the issue. With no light to attract the insects, a zapper is useless, so though its high voltage subsystem continues to work perfectly, most people junk it when altering the bulb doesn't make it mild up. I'm way too low-cost to be proud of such a state of affairs, so I determined to open up a failed bug zapper and see what was happening. The supply of the problem proved to be as simple as I anticipated and as simple to treatment, so within the hope of saving somebody else the trouble of figuring it out, I've scribbled these notes on how one can repair your own bug zappers. These instructions pertain to bug zappers made by the Windhager firm of Salzburg, Austria, who have a dominant market share in this obscure trade right here in Central Europe.
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Obviously, when you have a bug zapper made by another company, it may look different inside and may conceivably use a completely different circuit for the fluorescent lamp. Unless you perceive what you're doing and know enough electronics to be assured you're not going to do one thing silly, it's best to leave issues properly sufficient alone and get a new bug zapper. Further, [Zap Zone Defender](https://santo.kr:443/bbs/board.php?bo_table=free&wr_id=158463) we'll be disassembling and modifying a system which, [Zap Zone Defender](https://git.zimerguz.net/lashundastroup) when opened up, has uncovered connections to potentially lethal mains current and intensely unpleasant if not deadly excessive voltage. In case you are sufficiently silly or [Defender by Zap Zone](https://historydb.date/wiki/User:Leslie41K40) scatterbrained that you're likely to neglect to tug the mains plug earlier than sticking your hand inside the guts of a bug zapper, [Zap Zone Defender](http://pasarinko.zeroweb.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=notice&wr_id=7144010) you need to cease reading instantly and choose some safer venture, like making microwave popcorn. First of all, earlier than starting this process, make sure to attempt changing the bulb and see if that fixes the issue.
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If it does, you've got saved loads of time and, if not, you're going to need a replacement bulb ultimately, so why not have one readily available when the time comes? If a brand new bulb doesn't do the trick, the problem is almost actually a failed fluorescent starter inside the box, so we'll have to open it up. You probably did remember to unplug the zapper before beginning to disassemble it, didn't you? First, take away the bug catcher tray at the bottom of the zapper, taking care not to spill lifeless bugs all over the floor or your work space. Depending on the model, the 2 halves of the physique of the bug zapper are fastened together with four or six screws. On "industrial" models, these are 2 mm metric machine screws and nuts, however some "consumer" models use infernal "split slot" screws that are supposed to maintain you from opening up the gadget. You see, you're a consumer, so you are anticipated to devour-buy, buy, buy, not mend things which break.
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